STABLE PROS
Horse Care Feeding Training Riding Instruction in Ocala Levy Marion Central Florida
Whether you need to build a New Riding Ring,
Round Pen, Paddock, a Pole Barn... or just Field Fencing,
You can count on us to build only the BEST!...
in the field of equine and farm construction.
(NOW Building in Marion, Levy and Alachua County)
Whether you need to build a new riding ring, round pen, paddock, or just field fencing, you can count on STABLEPROS™ to build only the BEST!... in the field of equine and farm construction. STABLEPROS™ has experience of dealing not only with the single private riding arena and backyard stable, but the wider issues which may include housing, stabling and access for the large scale commercial project. STABLEPROS™ is the organization setting the standard for consulting, |
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Building an Environmentally Sound Riding Ring The size of a riding ring or arena depends on the type of riding you plan to do. For instance, 100x200 feet is good for pleasure riding. The arena fence should be at least 4 feet tall to discourage horses from putting their heads over the rail as they approach turns. Different types of fencing can be used, including wood, metal, and vinyl, as long as it's sturdy. The arena should be slightly higher in the center and slope gradually from one side to the other. Ditches may have to be installed for optimum drainage. Apply gravel to outdoor arenas to keep them from becoming slippery during the winter. A better solution for footing is to grade the natural earth until it is level and compact, then put in a rock base such as limestone or decomposed granite. A penetrating or sealing-type oil is recommended, followed by a layer of hard, coarse sand, typically washed concrete sand. Various materials can be mixed in to extend the life of the sand, such as sawdust, wood chips, hardwood fiber, and granulated rubber (one popular additive is made from defective athletic shoes). These materials help the arena surface by reducing dust, improving drainage and traction, and changing depth. Tips on arena footings The condition of the footing, or surface, of a riding ring or arena affects both horse and rider. If hoof prints aren't smoothed out, they can cause the horse to tilt to one side or the other, resulting in an uncomfortable ride. Over time, an uneven footing can damage a horse's feet. The type of footing is determined by climate, whether the arena is indoors or outdoors, and the riding discipline. For example, dressage and pleasure horses work well on a resilient footing that isn't too deep, while cutting horses like a footing that is 4 to 5 inches deep. Maintenance is the key to a good footing. Water your riding ring or arena to keep the dust down and drag it to keep the surface smooth and level. According to Wayne Gregory of Footings Unlimited, the rule of thumb for dragging is once a week if you own one horse, two or three times a week if you have three to five horses, and every two days if you own six or more horses. The type of drag you choose is largely budget-driven, but ideally, you want something with teeth or tines and a blade that will pull the edges and corners out and level the surface. Good harrows aren't cheap (they cost roughly $2,000), but they do a thorough job and can be used for other purposes such as breaking up soil for planting a pasture or keeping the paths clean in an orchard or vineyard.Constructing an outdoor riding ring with safe, clean footing that’s easy to maintain, holds up in all kinds of weather, and does not cause pollution, is an elusive goal of many horse owners.
The ideal footing should provide good traction, sufficient cushion to prevent excessive concussion, be nonabrasive and as free as possible of dust and odours that irritate both horse and rider. The type of material used should not have a high potential for leachate run-off that can cause pollution.
The three key elements in building an outdoor riding ring are design, materials and maintenance.
DESIGN
Location: Riding rings should be located in areas of good natural drainage. Notice where water runs and settles on your property so you can select a convenient location where the water drains away naturally. Rings should be at least 45 m (150') from a watercourse and 30 m (100') from a domestic water supply. It will likely be necessary to utilize a bulldozer or excavator to do the site preparation.
Size: The average size ring is approximately 21 m x 42 m.(70' x 140') The minimum recommended size is 20 m x 36 m. (65' x 120').
Footing: There are three major components to footing: the sub-base; the base; and the cushion. The ring site should be stripped of all vegetation and topsoil. In most areas this will leave a clay subbase. To allow water to run off, crown the ring with a 2% slope and compact the clay. A 1.2 m x 1.8 m (4' – 6') wide swale, 25 cm (1') deep, can be dug around the perimeter to carry away the runoff. Drainage: Perimeter drainage using drainage pipes may be required to reduce soil saturation around the ring. Water should be encouraged to run off the surface of the ring into the perimeter ditch or swale rather than move down through the ring surface. A well compacted, properly tapered sub-base is critical to good drainage. In areas of extremely high rainfall, a poly geo textile membrane may be needed over the clay to prevent it from softening and working up to the surface. Water from a swale can only be directed into a watercourse if it is not contaminated with materials that will cause pollution. The ring design will not prevent subsoils from becoming saturated, therefore, a well drained site is imperative.
MATERIALS
Base: The base further stabilizes and weatherproofs the area. A layer of uniform , dense graded, aggregate is recommended. This type of material can go by the name of stone dust, imestone screenings or decomposed granite and should not have particles larger than 9 mm. (3/8") Approximately 144 m3 (180 yd3) will be required for an average ring and after damping and compacting should provide a 100 mm x 150 mm (4" to 6") base. Cushion: The two most common cushion materials are sand or woodwaste products such as sawdust, shavings or bark mulch. Sand is the most durable and able to withstand frequent use. Medium coarse, washed sand is recommended. Unwashed sand or dead sand becomes very dusty when dry. In the average ring 72 m3 (90 yds3) will provide a 62 mm to 75 mm (2 ½" to 3") cushion. Woodwaste products are less expensive than sand and less dusty than unwashed sand, however, woodwaste gradually decomposes and after several years can retain enough water to form soggy patches in the ring. Sawdust rings can also be quite slippery when dry. Woodwaste products must be used so as not to cause pollution. Leachate must not be discharged into the environment. An inexpensive and environmentally safe option is a mixture of sand and an organic material such as sawdust, peat moss or composted manure. The sand provides the traction necessary to prevent slipping and the organic material retains moisture.
LOW USE RINGS For a ring with low use, the base may be eliminated and a 6" (150 mm) sand cushion, compacted, can be used. In this case, grading and compaction of the sub-base again is critical for good drainage. FENCING Fencing is optional and should suit the ring use. Fences, angled back (optional) to protect riders’ legs, should be a maximum slope of 2.5:12. MAINTENANCE Keeping Surface Level Sand rings should be “floated” frequently to keep the surface level and compacted for maximum water run-off. A simple float can be made with two railway ties that are tied together 90 cm (3') apart. Keeping Cushion Loose In dry periods or after extended use, the cushion may become compacted. A harrow or shallow rototiller will loosen up the cushion. SUMMARY
- Select a convenient well-drained site
- Remove all vegetation and topsoil.
- Crown the ring with a 2% slope from centre and form a swale around the outside
- Compact the sub-base
- Add a base of uniform dense graded aggregate; dampen and compact to 100 mm to 150 mm. (4" to 6")
- Add a 62 mm to 75 mm (2 ½" to 3") cushion of sand, sawdust or a combination of sand and organic material
- Keep moist and float and harrow as required
Barn and Stable Construction
Barn basics
Horse barns can be framed in wood, metal, or masonry. With the exception of pole barns, they all require a continuous concrete foundation wall. The pole barn (a fast, economical type of construction) consists of pressure-treated wood posts set below the ground on concrete footings.
Metal barns have a galvanized steel framework that, when engineered properly, can carry heavier snow and wind loads than wood barns. A metal barn doesn't require regular painting, weatherproofing, and replacing of roof shingles and damaged stall walls, and it's easier to clean. Pressure-washing the inside of the stalls twice a year is usually sufficient.
Follow these advices to build a better barn
The following guidelines will help you create a safe, horse-friendly barn:
Look for high ground. If possible, the barn should always be placed at the highest point on your property. The site should be well-drained and graded so water flows away from the building.
Fit the style to the site. Choose a barn that fits your site and geographic location. The shed-row (one or two rows of stalls with outside access covered by an overhang) is common in warmer climates. Traditional styles include the gambrel (a rounded roof seen on old dairy barns) and the classic gable roof. There is also a design with a raised centerline roof that can be built with a single or double aisle.
Keep fresh air circulating. Ventilation is critical because horses can develop respiratory problems without an adequate supply of fresh air. If the barn has a full loft, put a window in each stall for cross ventilation. Ridge and cave vents or cupolas are also helpful. Include doors at each end of the barn that can be left partly or completely open as weather permits. You can insulate the roof and walls to block cold drafts, but Engler advises against heating systems; they're expensive and unhealthy for the animals.
Cushion the floor. Dirt is the cheapest floor for a barn, but creates a lot of dust. Concrete is expensive, but permanent and easy to maintain. Another option is asphalt pavement, which is relatively soft and offers good traction. Use rubber mats, preferably 3/4 inch thick, in stalls and aisles to protect the horse's feet and legs.
Provide water and light. A barn needs both natural and artificial light to make it comfortable to work in. A convenient, dependable source of hot and cold water for drinking, bathing horses, cleaning stalls and tack, and washing blankets and other equine laundry is a must.
Minimize wear and tear. Horses roll, paw, and kick in their stalls. A metal barn discourages chewing and stands up to pounding; some manufacturers offer a lifetime kick-through warranty. However, metal stalls should be lined with hard lumber to prevent injuries to the animals. The recommended stall size is 12x12 feet, with walls at least 7 feet high.
Don't risk a fire. A hayloft above stalls is convenient, but it's also a fire hazard. Consider storing hay in a separate building. Metal barns have an edge over wood barns in that they're fire-resistant.
What'll it cost me? Barns vary widely in price depending on site conditions, material and labor costs and availability, and the complexity of the design, finishes, and features. You could conceivably spend from $5,000 for a small shed to $40,000 or more for a barn with all the extras.
A steel barn with four stalls, a tack room, and a feed room runs between $18,000 and $28,000, not including site preparation, concrete work, electrical wiring, and plumbing (add 25% to 30% for the last two).
If you can't afford everything you want right now, build it in stages. Install the rough plumbing and electrical work and add the amenities later. Consider a modular barn, which is built in modules or sections that permit expansion as your budget allows. If you have a good working knowledge of construction, you can save 10% to 20% of the total cost by acting as general contractor. However, you must be extremely organized and ready to commit a lot of time to overseeing the project.
